Kolhapuri Chappals and Design Rights

How traditional Kolhapuri chappals got a GI tag, and how the 2025 controversy over a luxury brand's similar sandals raised questions about crediting and paying artisans.

Kolhapuri chappals are handmade leather sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka.

The craft

Made by artisans, often from Dalit communities, in districts like Kolhapur.
Hand-stitched and vegetable-tanned leather.

GI tag

Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication tag in 2019, covering districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

The 2025 controversy

In June 2025, luxury brand Prada showed sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals at a fashion show, reportedly to be sold at high prices.
After criticism in India, Prada acknowledged the Indian inspiration and discussed collaboration with artisans.

The issue

Artisans sell chappals for a few hundred rupees, while global brands may sell similar designs for far more.
GI protects names but may not stop design inspiration.

Economic lesson

Traditional crafts need branding, market access and fair value chains to benefit artisans.

The price gap

An artisan in Kolhapur sells a pair for 800 rupees; a similar luxury-brand sandal could sell abroad for many times that.

Thinking a GI tag stops all copying

GI protects names, not every design inspiration.

Key takeaways

Kolhapuri chappals are handmade leather sandals.
They received a GI tag in 2019.
A 2025 luxury brand controversy highlighted artisans' value.
Branding and fair value chains matter.