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Leather and Footwear in India

Leather Work, Caste and Dignity

How leather work in India has been associated with caste discrimination, how this shaped the industry's workforce, and efforts to improve dignity and earnings.

In India, leather work has long been linked to caste.

History

  • Work with animal hides was considered “polluting” under caste norms.
  • Communities like Chamars and others were traditionally assigned leather work and faced untouchability.

Economic effects

  • Discrimination limited these workers’ mobility and earnings.
  • Some upper-caste business families owned tanneries and factories while Dalit workers did manual work.

Change

  • Dr B.R. Ambedkar urged Dalits to leave stigmatised occupations and pursue education.
  • Some leather workers became entrepreneurs and exporters.
  • Factory jobs in footwear brought wages to women from many communities.

Violence

Incidents like the 2016 Una attack in Gujarat, where Dalit men skinning a dead cow were assaulted, highlighted risks for leather workers.

Dignity

Programmes promote skills, safety and fair pay, and recognise craft value.

Economic lesson

Social discrimination affects labour markets, occupations and wealth.

The entrepreneur

A shoemaker from a traditional leather-working family in Agra builds his own brand, employing workers from many communities.

Thinking occupations are chosen freely

Caste shaped who did leather work in India.

Key takeaways
  • Leather work was linked to caste discrimination.
  • Discrimination limited mobility and earnings.
  • Some workers became entrepreneurs.
  • Violence like the 2016 Una attack highlighted risks.
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